Hi,
Last Sunday marked four years since I moved to New York. I first came to the city the day before Biden was inaugurated, and I watched him take office on my laptop from quarantine in a windowless room. It was in the middle of the pandemic but there was still a dim surge of hope pulsing under the city. Maybe it was just my optimism speaking as I started my new life. Either way, that feeling seems far and innocent now, especially after these harsh January weeks.
I thought I had a clear picture of myself before living here. Just a few weeks of the beauty and coldness turned me inside out. Everything came into focus — all my fears and beliefs and the sounds outside my window became sharp and real in a matter of days.
When people ask what it’s like to live in New York, I always reply that it’s hard but good. Impossibly the best thing I’ve ever done. There is so much food to try and art to see. So many conversations to overhear and strangers to meet! The funniest thing about living here is how everyone is secretly really rich except for you. The best thing about it is the way the city protects and hurts and fights for its ideas.
One of the ways the city cares for you is with its secrets. There are pockets of New York that exist only for you. True things you can only learn alone. A few years ago, this creed fell into my lap with a late night habit in the West Village.
It started on a Saturday night when my friends were visiting from Boston on a whim. We went to the Queens Night Market and had dollar dumplings and tea before wandering into the city. I don’t remember where the recommendation came from, but my friends were adamant about us visiting this jazz bar, Smalls.
Smalls, I found that night, is a basement bar on West 10th Street that has a line of people waiting down the block most nights. If you go late enough, you can walk right in. Down some steep cellar stairs, it’s an intimate brick-walled room covered in pictures of jazz musicians in low lighting. You’re almost on top of the artists playing their hearts out on the tiny stage before you. Entry to Smalls is easier and free after 1 a.m. because any musician can come onstage to have a little jam. There’s a fuzzy understanding in the room that if you’re there, you’re lucky to see whatever you’re seeing.
So I went that summer with my out-of-town friends when my life was still starting, when I was still funny and eager to please. I felt dizzy and full from dumplings and happy to be in the dark, listening to loud trumpets and counting time. I couldn’t look away from the stage and hours went by in just a few seconds. Every song felt like coming up for air, clawing at an unmistakable richness. Don’t laugh or make La La Land jokes — I had listened to jazz before but had never seen anything like this! And it wasn’t just the live improvisation that transfixed. The bartenders were brewing coffee at 2 a.m.! Every stranger became a friend! I flirted with a pianist who winked from the stage and stayed until the lights came on. It was a whirlwind with music so alive I knew I had to see it again for myself. I decided to go back alone.
I was so nervous to return by myself, plagued by some fears about jazz exclusivity and being defenseless in a new place. I worked a night shift at the time, so I told myself I’d just stop by on the way home. But the first piano chords rang out and lapped up all my plans. I got swept away again so quickly, sitting in the back next to other stragglers with my ears ringing from the high notes.
The group closest to me had just gotten off their shift at Dante a few blocks away and roped me into their low stakes debates in between songs. We were eventually joined by a charming, rambling older man who didn’t finish any of his sentences but kept making us laugh. He kept threatening to perform, which made us laugh harder because he seemed like a drunken regular who had only just wandered in. But then he stumbled up to the stage, so fast that we couldn’t stop him, and sat down at the piano and played. We quieted immediately.
It was like lightning coming out of his fingertips. His eyes were closed and he improvised alone for a few moments before a drummer joined in, then the bass. Then he sang in a voice soaked in blues and smoke. Everyone in the bar was silent, unprepared to hear such glory after a few sets of college students trying out their new compositions on the stage. The bartender laughed at my surprised face.
“He’s a legend,” she said, so cool, like she’d revealed it to a million open-mouthed onlookers before. She probably had. “Look him up.”
The next morning, after getting home at sunrise, I did. Reeling like the whole night had been a dream, feeling like I wanted to stay in that basement club forever, I read everything I could about Mr. Johnny O’Neal and watched YouTube videos of him performing. I couldn’t get enough, feeling like the magic was corroborated because I could revisit a piece of it anytime I wanted. I was under a spell. I wanted to hear it all again. So I dragged myself to the bar the next week at 1 a.m. And the week after that and the week after that.
I just kept going back. It felt good to have this world to escape to on weeknights. When the city was mostly asleep but the stage felt so awake and new. It wasn’t a secret because I had something to hide. It was a secret because I just really needed something that belonged only to me. The habit caught me at a weird impasse in my life when I was always working late and trying to figure out who I could be each day. I always had stories for my friends about the long jazzy nights, but I would keep some details to myself, saving cherry pits of my memories to relive with my headphones on the train.
There were so many nights in that cellar that wadded up my life and made the city shine for me. I was lucky enough to catch more of the legendary Mr. O’Neal, along with so many other brilliant and mythical performers. I met strangers I could count on. Every song was somehow the best one I’d ever heard. There were regular characters who seemed intimidating and were only ever kind.
The jazz did something to my brain. I leaned on myself and started saying yes to every funny thing. I had soup next door with a doctor named after a Greek god. A French drummer and I sang karaoke with an off-broadway cast. The bartender who laughed at my surprise became my friend, a fountain of kindness and the best gossip and trashy romance novels. I met musicians I learned to avoid and became someone I recognized, ordering a glass of red wine and changing seats in between sets. I asked for song titles and origin stories and recommendations. I gave up on being embarrassed. During the daytime, I tried to catch glimpses of the girl I remembered from the night before in the sunlight.
My dream world ended just a few months after it began. I saw something I shouldn’t have. The bubble burst in an instant and I got scared. I left without telling anyone, slipping up the stairs and calling a car. It was a long time before I went back. It’s part of the story, an undeniable truth of so many secrets we carry: It couldn’t last and maybe that’s why it felt so perfect. I think part of me will be there forever.
Our inner worlds are utterly incomprehensible without leaving pieces of ourselves behind to revisit. New York has a tendency to make you a historian of your own patterns. You’ll learn to retrace your steps and figure out who you were becoming when you weren’t paying attention.
The last time I went to Smalls was with my friend, months after that night when I left without saying goodbye. It felt different. I barely recognized anyone in the room. They had changed some of the lights and the place was full of people who had seen a TikTok about it. I knew that what I left there was over but perfectly preserved. An outdated version of myself forever sitting in the bar I used to know. On the way home, I played Chet Baker and felt that warm, dizzy feeling again.
I started working during the daytime again a few weeks later. I couldn’t go back to Smalls even if I wanted to. I reached an understanding with my secret nights. I’d let them go and in turn, they would live forever. I might never betray some of the stories from those months, but I still listen to songs I heard there first all the time. I’ll never forget how it felt to have a hiding place where I could pretend I knew what I wanted.
In the end, the whole affair just taught me more about a full and hungry life in a greedy, tilting city. And maybe it would mean something to someone elsewhere but I just can’t see it like that. I’m selfish and four years feels like a long time to be in love this way.
This is what I’ve learned about New York. You will have years where everything you touch turns into secrets. You’ll keep parts of the city to yourself. You go to the jazz bar late at night. You excuse yourself to Google people you just met in restaurant bathrooms. You take your visiting friends to a garden and walk past a bench you almost died on, but you hold the story to your chest because it’s hard to explain how a knife can twist in a public green space.
Then you don’t tell anyone about an old lady who danced for you on a rooftop, even though it might have been a funny story. You can save some laughing for yourself. You’ll remember her years later when that song plays in an Uber and you’ll cry because you want to laugh in secret again but forgot how. You’ll remember again the next morning after your favorite cup of coffee. A secret can be a fickle overreaction.
But you’ll cry in stairwells, too. You’ll whisper in bookstores and get in trouble. You will run out of ideas and hide bodega cups with craft store feathers in them under your bed. You’ll call it magic. You’ll call for help. The city will wear you down.
The walks you take at night will belong only to you. There is so much to see that you never get tired. There is so much to write that you never get it all down. And when you finally sleep, you’ll wake up when the radiator clicks on and your room’s too bright but it’s New York so it’s all soaked anyways in something that burns like impulse and looks a lot like love. And everything is supposed to happen exactly like this. And one morning, on an inevitable spring day, you’ll give up the bar and keep the jazz and spill your guts.
Maybe it’s all a way of holding out, the secret to being in love for so long and still carrying hope in horrible weeks like these. Showing attention to whatever makes you feel brave, especially when no one is looking. Letting things belong to you and being unafraid to let them go.
You can build a habit to find the part of yourself that cares. You can keep a secret just for fun. You should go to Smalls sometime and sit in the back.
FIVE THINGS I’VE CONSUMED LATELY
The lemon potatoes at Kiki’s
I finished reading Wuthering Heights a few weeks ago and have returned to Anne Carson’s The Glass Essay multiple times since just to rub some salt in the wound
Heavy Metal by Cameron Winter but mostly the song “Love Takes Miles” when he sings “You left me promising your shoes” in the second verse it makes me feel like sliding down a wall for some reason
I just keep quoting this video of David Lynch RIP to the greatest
Brenda Song and Macaulay Culkin are so cute
Please respond and tell me about your secrets. Thanks for reading!
C